by slizzardman on Thu Feb 04, 2010 5:41 pm
Yea man, so what I did was buy a 1 inch thick piece of plywood and some 1 inch PVC. In retrospect, I would suggest that you use threaded metal pipe if you can spare the extra 20 bucks. One 10 foot pipe of 3/4 inch rigid metal conduit should only be around 15 bucks, so get one of those at home depot and get one 2 foot piece, two 10 inch pieces, and four 8 inch pieces cut and threaded. Now all you need are two 3/4 inch 90 degree elbows and two 3/4 inch T junctions. Don't buy galvanized if you don't have to, the galvanized fittings are a dollar more. Regardless, total cost should be around 60 bucks. 80-90 if you need to buy pipe wrench(es). I recommend at least one. All you do is basically make a parallete, but with the uprights going through the plywood and with the base below the plywood. Does that make sense? I would use metal because it doesn't flex AND it is threaded, so you don't have to worry about glue popping. It's worth the money in my opinion. I used PVC so I ended up using rope to secure the middle so there wouldn't be any flex. You can brace it with 1x4's on the bottom, or a second layer of plywood if you don't make it too long.
Plywood comes in 4x8 foot sections, so the easy setups are 2 foot x 8 foot or 4x4 foot if you double layer with 1 piece. I have a single layer and it works ok for me, but the double layer may appeal to some of you. It is honestly the easiest thing besides paralletes to make. You just put your metal parallete through the wood around a foot away from the edge. I would suggest using the 4x4 set up if you do a double layer, or running 2x4 rails underneath, just for extra support and a perfectly flat surface. You can use bigger pipe if you want, but everything gets more expensive. I used pipe insulation as a pad, but I find that I don't need it so I took it off. For the metal you may want to use it. I wouldn't glue the padding on, because you may want to use the bare bar for the body levers.