Matt Miller Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 So I'm getting ready for DIY stall bars and saw all the good threads here. Seems like most folks recommend installation with a Forstner bit with a screw in the end of each dowel. I was actually just thinking of soing something simpler and drilling a solid hole all the way through the side piece and using wood glue to secure the dowel in place. Are there any pros/cons to this design vs. the Forstner design? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Blythe Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 I would not glue them. If one breaks you can replace it. I drilled all the thru with a hole saw then screwed them . If one breaks I can replace it without disassembling everything just unscrew and slide in the new one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Miller Posted June 9, 2013 Author Share Posted June 9, 2013 Great tip - hadn't even thought of that! So if you drilled all the way through, I'm guessing you screwed them from the front/back of the side brace? I couldn't tell from the pic. I guess that would also prevent them from rotating as well... not a bad idea. I don't mind the Forstner route if it's actually better in some way or form. I just already have a through-hole bit and if it truly makes no difference then I'd just rather saving myself the purchase of a Forstner bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Blythe Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 I just pre drilled a hole and used like a big screw to keep them from rotating. Just be sure to use a good heavy duty screw you don't want it to snap off when tightening it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Burnham Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 I would not glue them. If one breaks you can replace it. I drilled all the thru with a hole saw then screwed them . If one breaks I can replace it without disassembling everything just unscrew and slide in the new one.If I did mine over again I would do this. I would also allow the dowels to come off the side of the boards so that I would have open ended bars to hang things off of like elastic bands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joshua Naterman Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 Yes, the screws are the way to go. This is how mine are built, and it makes everything very simple. The bars extending out is a good idea Hmm.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicholas Herreros Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 Screwed mine also. Just make sure you use good hardwood dowels. I used cheap pine and a few split. But rhey still don't rotate and hold me great. Another idea I had from glancing at photos and have not done myself is, after the holes were drilled out for dowels is to rip the 2x4 down the center of the holes and make a clamp so u can put screws between the dowels so no dowels will be screwed directly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Miller Posted June 11, 2013 Author Share Posted June 11, 2013 I just pre drilled a hole and used like a big screw to keep them from rotating. Just be sure to use a good heavy duty screw you don't want it to snap off when tightening it up.I got 1-1/4" oak dowels and will be assembling some time this week. I already have 3" deck screws - which should be long enough to go all the way through the dowel centered at 2" from the end of the brace - would these not suffice? Wasn't sure what constitutes a "heavy duty" screw. And what are the pipes coming off of your stall bars? Did you add a parallel bar extension or something? I was thinking of doing something similar myself but haven't come up with a good idea for bracing on the other end yet. Thanks to all for the tips - I'm simply drilling full holes all the way through and screwing in all dowels into 2x8's, which will allow me to bring the top bar out a good 3" from the bottom ones. Should be easy enough for a caveman to do! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Blythe Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 "And what are the pipes coming off of your stall bars? Did you add a parallel bar extension or something? I was thinking of doing something similar myself but haven't come up with a good idea for bracing on the other end yet." You can secure the bottom to plywood but the are sturdy enough with out. As long as your not doing any dynamic swing dip stuff . I'm going to to redo the dip station and put it off to the side so they are not in the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Miller Posted June 11, 2013 Author Share Posted June 11, 2013 "And what are the pipes coming off of your stall bars? Did you add a parallel bar extension or something? I was thinking of doing something similar myself but haven't come up with a good idea for bracing on the other end yet."You can secure the bottom to plywood but the are sturdy enough with out. As long as your not doing any dynamic swing dip stuff .I'm going to to redo the dip station and put it off to the side so they are not in the way. Brilliantly simple! Are those mounted into the floor or freestanding? And they don't wobble too much? I was thinking of doing it with wood 4x4's or something (with two dowels as the PB's), but if your rig works well then that's a simpler solution that doesn't take up as much space either. Nice work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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