Seeking advice on freestanding stall bar construction

[Connor Davies]

I'm comissioning a piece of equipment I know only as THE THING.  Bare with me here, because it's a little hard to describe.

 

Basically, imagine  a set of stall bars, with parallel bars leading out from the top, connecting to another set of stall bars at the other end.  (Whether I'll actually need 2 sets of stall bars remains to be seen.)

 

The entire thing is made to be freestanding, with exercises performed in the interior of the structure, which in theory will stop it falling over (although I'm unsure if there will be enough lateral stability during say, hanging windshield wipers.)

 

My reach extends to 93 inches overhead, so I figure the thing should be 93-100 inches tall, so that I can perform pullups, hanging leg lifts and such on it without hitting the floor.  It should probably also be around this long, so I can perform human flags on the inside without hitting the far side.  (2 points here: My arms will be further apart as is necessary for flags, so my overall height will be shorter, and if there is no ladder on the far end I can just poke my feet through.

 

As is standard, my cross bars will be 1+3/8 to 1+5/8 inches wide, spaced 5-8 inches apart, and the top bar will be offset by 2-3 inches.  (Oh yeah, there will be a top bar between the two parallel bars.)

 

Standard width for competition parallel bars is 17-20 inches, and I figure I'll have them built to whatever in this range is closest to my shoulder width.  However, I know stall bars are usually twice this wide, and I don't know enough about stall bar specific exercises to know if my narrower bars will be a problem.  If so, I will have to have them made a separate length.

 

I also am unsure what layout the final base will have.  I need to be able to place heavy weight on them in order to perform natural leg curl variations, and these bars may not always be placed on a level surface.

 

I also don't know what materials I really want this thing made out of.  I live in Europe, and the recommendations I've seen so far say either Ash or Beech, but I don't even know if I want it made out of wood.  It will be outside during rain, snow, sun ect and I intend to use it for the rest of my life if possible, so I really need a durable, weatherproof material here.  Perhaps metal would be appropriate, but I wonder how that would affect my grip during the winter months.

 

Finally, The whole thing needs to be able to come apart to be transported.  I'm assuming it will need to unscrew at the joints, or perhaps a folding arrangement would be possible, but it's outside the scope of my expertise to consider how.  Actually, if a folding arrangement is possible, I would like to fold it down along the ladder portion as well, so the whole thing would only measure about 50 inches long.  This would allow me to fit it in my car, and transportation would be much easier.

 

So that's my THE THING.  I need any and all advice you can give me in regards to the issues raised above, as well as others I may have not considered.

 

Edit: Oh yeah.  Traditionally, the vertical beams on stall bars are 2x10, maybe 2x12 right?  This is impractical for the P-bars on top, which I assumed would be the same width as the dowels.  Can a couple of bars that thin support this structure with as much stress as I will be loading onto it, or will the break?  I'll essentially be pushing on them with my entire bodyweight along a 100 inch lever arm, with a kind of twisting, sideways force.

[Mikkel Ravn]

Sounds interesting, especially that you want to be able to collapse this beast into something that will fit in a car. Let me know if you succeed in this!

 

As for material, beech is highly unsuited for outdoor use, as it rots quickly. Ash is better, but really, something like oak or robinia would be the best for outdoor use; estimated durability for robinia in a ground contact situation is 30 years, and this is without any sort of chemical treatment. Both are quite expensive however, and robinia is usually crooked as well, so it's difficult to obtain straight rafters.

 

I work out on metal stall bars outside during the winter, and while it is cold, it isn't a huge problem when wearing some good rubber dipped gloves. I usually warm up in my house, and just go out for the exercises that require stall bars or parallel bars.

[Connor Davies]

Yes I think metal might be better, at least for structural integrity.  If I have the handholds made to the lower end of the specifications, I can always put a layer of tape on them to lower the rate of heat transference.  I think metal may also allow more options as far as collapsing the thing goes.

[Michael Blythe]

Here is a site that has the stuff you need. It's not cheap, I'm trying to design something myself also .

http://www.simplifiedbuilding.com/blog/portable-parkour-structures-built-with-kee-klamp-video/

[Connor Davies]

Thanks for the link.  Any idea what the overheads on a project like this run to?

[Michael Blythe]

I had a few different designs that came to around 1200 1500 with the pipe included . Not bad for what you end up with compared to if you bought a bunch of different pieces of equipment . Stall bars/ parellel bars / high bar/ pull up bar etc .

[Mikkel Ravn]

Here is a site that has the stuff you need. It's not cheap, I'm trying to design something myself also .

http://www.simplifiedbuilding.com/blog/portable-parkour-structures-built-with-kee-klamp-video/

One day. One day...

[Connor Davies]

Physics people: would it be possible to work pikes on the stall bars?  I suppose if I end up pulling it towards me I can brace it against a wall, but....

[Joshua Slocum]

If you're on the inside, pikes would be fine, assuming the joints are strong.

[Connor Davies]

If you're on the inside, pikes would be fine, assuming the joints are strong.

Thanks.

[Connor Davies]

I think that just shoulder width wide is going to be very limiting for you.  There is no reason that I can see that the stall bars and parallel bars need to be the same width.

Okay so Cole Dano says that my stall bars should be wider than shoulder width, and given that he's a coach (and even officially affiliated with the program!) I'm inclined to believe him.  Although, he did neglect to mention exactly how a narrower stall bar would be limiting...

 

Now I'm wondering: will the thing be stable enough, or will I need some from of tethers? I'm thinking along the lines of tent pegs, but basically will it need to be stabilised laterally?  If I'm doing handstands on it, the total height will be approaching 200 inches tall and I'm pretty sure 5 meters of scaffolding would require some kind of brace, at least to create a wider base of support...

 

Edit: Coach has also mentioned that narrower stall bars will stop me from performing some progressions from upcoming series', so I'm upping the width (for the stall bars) to 36 inches.  Presumably that will be fine.

 

Edit: Presumably I can just use tent pegs or some such if I really need to.

[Connor Davies]

Couple more questions.

 

First, these http://www.simplifiedbuilding.com/store/components/kee-klamp/26-two-socket-cross.html

 

If I place those in the middle of the 'long' parts (halfway up the stall bars, halfway along the P-bars) will it completely ruin the structural integrity?  I want to use them because when I dismantle the thing, it would only be 50 inches long instead of 100.  Scrolling down the page I found this: "A Kee Klamp component (size 5 to 9) can support an axial load of 2000 lbs. per set screw with the set screw tightened to a torque of 29 lbs/ft. (rating includes a safety factor of 2:1)" but I'm totally out of my depth here, and I'm unsure if that means it will be safe enough?

 

Also, some stall bars have a couple of crossbeams removed from up the top, near where the head would be whilst hanging.  What is the purpose of this?

 

Edit: Found these.

[Connor Davies]

Bump.

[George Vere]

I am planning on building my set of freestanding stall bars over the Christmas break. I don't really have anything to add because I'm still refining my plan though!

[Connor Davies]

I am planning on building my set of freestanding stall bars over the Christmas break. I don't really have anything to add because I'm still refining my plan though!

How does your plan compare to mine?

[Connor Davies]

Inspired by this article, I'm considering making my stall bars out of PVC pipe as it would be much cheaper.  Does anyone have any experience with pvc piping and would it hold a decent amount of weight?

 

Edit: Reading the comments down below, it seems like pvc is really brittle and would break.  Nevermind.

[Cole Dano]

Just to make this crystal clear, do NOT attempt to make stall bars from PVC pipe, they WILL break.

 

Also since you seem to be considering KeeKlamps to make stall bars, again, not a good idea unless you have a very large wallet.

 

In order to make a set the you can take down and split in half, I'd recommend you make the frame from four layers of 1/2 plywood, so the top and bottom connect with a tongue and groove type system with a 1inch young in the centre.

[Connor Davies]

In order to make a set the you can take down and split in half, I'd recommend you make the frame from four layers of 1/2 plywood, so the top and bottom connect with a tongue and groove type system with a 1inch young in the centre.

You've lost me completely.

 

Plywood doesn't strike me to be very weatherproof.  I'm hesitant to use wood at all, because this thing will be outside and exposed to the elements.  I've had to get multiple window frames in my house replaced just in this last year due to weather damage, so I don't have a lot of faith in wood right now.

[Chris Edgar]

Why not just make the whole thing from scaffolding? It would be stronger, cheaper and more collapsible. it would last forever outside, and you could cover it in tape, like you said, so the cold wouldn't be an issue!

[Connor Davies]

Why not just make the whole thing from scaffolding? It would be stronger, cheaper and more collapsible. it would last forever outside, and you could cover it in tape, like you said, so the cold wouldn't be an issue!

Yeah that was my plan.  Problem is I can't find any cheap scaffolding, I assumed kee klamps were the best option...  But then I haven't shopped around yet.  I'm still saving up the money.