How to work in F1 & H1 into climbing gym routine?

[jborer]

Hello all,

 

I recently decided to take the plunge and begin the F1 & H1 courses. My current exercise routine includes climbing/yoga and I have many of the muscle imbalances common in amateur climbers (rounded shoulders, poor shoulder mobility, and tight forearms). Based on what ive read in the forums and in interviews with Coach Sommer I am excited to work on my joint strength and mobility to solidify a life long engagement in athletics.  

 

However I am a little concerned about over training and risking injury. I was hoping to do F1 3x week  with H1 incorporation and continue to climb/yoga 2-3x per week. Does this seem like too much? 

 

I am curious how other climbers have incorporated the F series in their climbing routine.

 

 

Any advice is much appreciated.

 

j   

[Vincent Stoyas]

I had great success while focusing primarily on f1.

Climbing I tried to keep as skill work. I'd climb three to four times a week, but with low volume and long rest times. I did this over the course of a year and progressed from 5.10c indoor to leading an 11d outdoor.

[Joshua Slocum]

Climbing and F/H should fit together great! Just drop/greatly reduce any strength training you're already doing for your climbing and you should be set. You may want to add in some additional grip work - Foundation will improve most people's grip, but as a climber you might benefit from more targeted work.