Scott Jelsma Posted August 19, 2016 Author Share Posted August 19, 2016 Will - Hickory has about twice the bending strength of poplar. However, I have used stall bars that use poplar dowels and they have been fine. If you are under 175 lbs and don't go with an overly wide span between the uprights, I think you will probably be fine with poplar. Just make sure to pick dowels that don't have big knots or other defects. You will certainly save a lot of money. - Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Searra Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 David these bars look amazing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tautu Florin Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 Maybe this helps other people who want to build own Stall Bars How the Stall Bars are made? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MEHMET BACIOGLU Posted November 21, 2016 Share Posted November 21, 2016 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Jelsma Posted November 21, 2016 Author Share Posted November 21, 2016 Mehmet, Very nice! Scott 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MEHMET BACIOGLU Posted November 26, 2016 Share Posted November 26, 2016 Thanks scott but i had an accident. Stallbars suddenly fell down doing workout. I think that screws was not apropriate for the aerated concrete wall. Do you have suggestion for the mounting the stallbars to the wall.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Jelsma Posted November 27, 2016 Author Share Posted November 27, 2016 Mehmet, I hope you were not hurt when your stall bars fell off the wall. That certainly could be dangerous. I am not familiar with "aerated concrete" so I am not sure what to recommend for attaching your stall bars to your wall. For a standard poured concrete wall I would probably use wedge anchors like the one shown below. - Scott 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Everett Carroll Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 On 11/26/2016 at 0:06 PM, MEHMET BACIOGLU said: I think that screws was not apropriate for the aerated concrete wall. Do you have suggestion for the mounting the stallbars to the wall.? Hey Mehmet, Depending on where this setup is located, my suggestion may or may not work. Your safest option is to put a steel sheet or two (minimum 1/8" thick) on the opposite side of the wall and attach the stahl bars directly to it. If you don't have something solid to drill into and go all the way through the aircrete, you have already discovered what happens. You probably want at least 4 stainless steel bolts going all the way through to the metal sheet(s). After that you're probably okay to backup with some other screws directly into the blocks. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MEHMET BACIOGLU Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 Thank you Everett. You can see my setup photo in the above post. Back wall is made of aerated concrete and side wall is poured concrete. I am fine after this accident but next time i may not be so lucky. As far as i understand your suggestion, i need to place steel sheet other face of the wall. It will be good option but other room will not be looking so pretty. I have two options 1) to place the stall to a concrete wall in other room 2) to attach it to concrete wall on the left side. Using L angle bracket on top and middle of the stall bars will be enough ? Because on the right side i need to fix it into aerated concrete again but this time deeper screws. Thaks for advice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bennett Dahl Posted August 2, 2017 Share Posted August 2, 2017 I've been hunting and looking for awhile but I can't seem to find wooden dowels any thicker then 1-1/4'x36' Oak. Any recommendations? I'm open to other types of wood, or maybe a little thicker dowel and use 2 36' L dowels to cover the 72' if need be. I built one over 3yrs ago and it works great, it's just not as wide as I need it or would like. I couldn't find the right dowels I wanted then, so I made it narrower to keep the strength up since the wood was softer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Jelsma Posted August 3, 2017 Author Share Posted August 3, 2017 If you live in the USA , try this site. It is where I purchased my dowels: https://www.bairdbrothers.com/ https://www.bairdbrothers.com/mobile/Hickory-C1173.aspx https://www.bairdbrothers.com/mobile/searchresults.aspx?cx=005517046416791950571:oykzxkkptwk&cof=FORID:11&ie=UTF-8&q=Dowel&sa=Search Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Butler Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 Hi, I'm interested in building stall bars, based on people's knowledge of the gymnastic bodies exercises would a width of 500mm (20 inches) be sufficient? Thanks Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Jelsma Posted August 25, 2017 Author Share Posted August 25, 2017 Paul, my opinion is that 500mm (20 inches) would be quite narrow. However, if that is all you have room for, it would certainly be better than not having anything. Many exercises could be performed on narrow stall bars, but it might not be quite as comfortable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Roberts Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 https://www.caseyswood.com was the best source I could find for dowels. Thanks for the plans! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Jelsma Posted January 26, 2018 Author Share Posted January 26, 2018 Andrew, Nice job. They look great! Enjoy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Étienne Lajeunesse Posted January 27, 2018 Share Posted January 27, 2018 Nice thread! Will be good when I'll get one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krista Sandercock Posted February 15, 2018 Share Posted February 15, 2018 Did you use the same kind of wood as he did? I was curious how it held up if you used a different kind Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael McDaniel Posted July 28, 2018 Share Posted July 28, 2018 How did you attach the device to the wall? I rent an apartment so management isn’t going to like it if I tear up the walls by attaching it. I have the same question about how to hang rings from the ceiling. Is it possible in an apartment to put rings then patch the ceiling if I move? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Jelsma Posted July 28, 2018 Author Share Posted July 28, 2018 29 minutes ago, Michael McDaniel said: How did you attach the device to the wall? I rent an apartment so management isn’t going to like it if I tear up the walls by attaching it. I have the same question about how to hang rings from the ceiling. Is it possible in an apartment to put rings then patch the ceiling if I move? Michael , The stall bars are attached to the wall using 2-1/2in "SPAX" screws going into each stud. For the rings, I have access to the attic above the ceiling so I had more options than you probably have in an apartment. I used long eye-bolts which go through a 2X10 board which straddles multiple ceiling joists up in the attic. I drilled through the 2X10 and then used large washers to ensure the nut would not pull through the board. I used two nuts threaded onto the eye-bolt with a lock washer between the two, along with liquid lock-tight to ensure it can never come loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael McDaniel Posted July 29, 2018 Share Posted July 29, 2018 I am going to build my own. I am wondering how you would design the top part to accommodate rings. I want to make a standalone version of the apparatus that has a 4 foot long feet. There is a design like that elsewhere in the forum. None of the designs seem to have is a place for hanging rings on a standalone apparatus. I’m curious how you would design that to accommodate rings hanging from a horizontal beam on the top. I am only 5 foot seven and 145 pounds. Do I really need an 8 foot tall stall? I’m also making just one stall so I’m assuming about 4 feet wide is plenty. Is that good if I were to hang the rings from the apparatus or does it need to be more narrow ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Jelsma Posted July 29, 2018 Author Share Posted July 29, 2018 Michael, Good luck on your build. I’ve seen other stand-alone version on this site also. A four foot width for a single stall bar would be very nice. If you are 5’7” you probably do not “need” 8’ tall stall bars, but you might as well build them as tall as your ceiling allows. I think if you are adding a ring attachment you will want as much height as you can get. I don’t know how I would add rings to stall bars. If you do build you own stand-alone version with rings, I would love to see your finished design. Please post pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael McDaniel Posted July 31, 2018 Share Posted July 31, 2018 (edited) Scott, thanks for the encouragement. I recently found out that the rings wouldn’t come until much later in my training. Therefore I may not add them now. However I have an idea of how I would do it. In fact I’m going to do the same thing for the base that I would do for rings. On my 4 foot long legs I plan to use a triangular joint. The legs and the angled joint would both pivot out of the way for storage or movement. I would do the same for the top and the bottom. This could save people space especially for stand alone versions. I would use hardware like a cotter pin or dowel rod which could be pushed through to quickly and easily allow the joints to disassemble and pivot it into storage position. I don’t know is how much space one needs from the wall to use the rings. So I don’t know if this design will work if the distance is insufficient. Back in my college days I made a bunk bed with desk underneath it entirely out of wood with no metal hardware. It used dowel rods at the joints. Add summer break I merely popped out the dowel rod‘s and the bunk bed disassembled. That’s the same idea that I would use for this rather than use metal hardware. Edited August 1, 2018 by Michael McDaniel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael McDaniel Posted August 7, 2018 Share Posted August 7, 2018 (edited) What is the minimum width that the dowel rods should be? Is 39 inches wide enough? I’m 5’7” so I don’t need anything really wide for a chin up with arms at 90° angle. Someone taller would need something wider. Edited August 7, 2018 by Michael McDaniel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Jelsma Posted August 7, 2018 Author Share Posted August 7, 2018 Michael, I think 39” would be a very nice width. Mine are 36”, but wider would be good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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