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Training Pad for Stall Bars Needed


Nick Ebner
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Hey all,

     I have a client who purchased an installed stall bars in her apartment. The problem is her top rung is very far out from the others. I suggested she get a Gibson TOPS Training Pad, or something similar but 1.5 inch thickness is all she found and it's still not enough. Does anyone have any suggestions on what to use? Attached is a picture. For reference, the metal bar is 1.5in thick Any suggestions will be appreciated.

Thanks   

IMG_0723.JPG

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Nick Murray

Could you post a photo of the top bar, or tell us which brand of stall bars it is? What is the diameter of the top rung, and the supports for the top rung?

She could add another top bar using another length of metal tube or dowel, and possibly a couple of pipe clamps, but I'd have to see the top of the bars to suggest anything more detailed.

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Nick Murray

On second thoughts, I'm assuming the top of the stallbar looks like the top picture, below. Excuse the cut & paste.

Why not unscrew one of the other bars (maybe the bottom one, indicated in the bottom picture) and screw it onto the support holding the existing top bar. The red arrow below points to the new top bar.

Your client might need to get the installer back or if she's happy using a drill, she can probably do it herself.

stallbar1.jpg

stallbar2.jpg

Edited by Nicholas Murray
forum software shows photos next to each other during editing, but vertically otherwise.
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Nick Murray

Option 1: Ask the manufacturer if there are shorter top-bar supports. Or return the bars and find something that fits better.

Option 2: You might need to physically hold a bar for your client to hang on to in order to find a good distance out from the uprights. Maybe the top-bar supports should be 1/3 as far out from the uprights as they are now??

Find someone with metalworking experience and a welder.

Cut out a section of the supports (in the flat area),

Weld them back together.

 

The top view of the diagram shows the side view of the support closest to the camera. The red lines show a section to chop out.

  • Dimension 'a' is the distance from the support to the wall-side of the upright.
  • 'b' is the length of the bar support that has the bolt holes in it, measured from the INSIDE corner of the support.
  • The bottom line the diagram shows the bar support shortened.
  • Dimension 'c' is - as a guess  - about 1/3 the original distance out from the uprights.
  • The section to chop out is length a - c.
  • Since the uprights are tubular, cut out the section in the middle of the triangular support, else the weld might stop the bolt-end of the support from wrapping around the tubular uprights.

I hope this makes sense!

 

 

bars2.jpg

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Laurie Donaldson

I wonder if this is because the bars are behind the posts instead of flush with the inside? Is it possible to turn the posts so that the bars are toward the front and still attach the hang bar the same? That would close the gap. Curious what brand this is since I am researching these and would rather look for one with bars flush inside.

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