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DIY Parallel Bars that work for single bar exercises too


Jonathan Howard
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Jonathan Howard

Just finished this Christmas present to myself. :) Total cost was $200.

Home Depot shopping list was:

1x 48" long 1x4 
6x 8' long 4x4
1x 8' long 2x6
2x 8' long 2x4
2x 2" diameter pine dowels - 48" long - (would have preferred hickory or oak but couldn't find those anywhere. Went with a shorter run because I didn't want them taking up my entire basement. There were 72" galvanized steel pipes at the store but those were only 1 1/4" in diameter and the 2" diameter, although not the 2" x 1.6" oval that you get with regular p-bars, I figured would be better for grip strength. Plus I prefer wood for some reason.

If you wanted a longer run you can use the 72" galvanized steel pipes or 72" aluminum fence posts, which are 1 5/16" in diameter. Just adjust the diameter of the forstner bit listed below as needed. The other nice thing about wood here is that it's super simple to drive a screw into them to prevent rolling, which could save you from a nasty faceplant on Korean dips.

Hardware:

4x4 connector brackets (you can find these in the framing aisle near the lumber)
1 box of 25 1.5" lag screws (for attaching brackets to 4x4s)
16x 3" lag screws (for attaching 2x6 angle supports to 4x4s)
1/4" washers (for lag screws)
1 box 3" deck screws (for attaching 2x4 and 1x4 support rails, and securing dowels) - note: I find wood screws to be very brittle and often snap when using an impact driver to screw them into 4x4s, hence decks screws
1 box 1 1/2" deck screws (for attaching the brackets to the 4x4s)
2" forstner bit for drilling holes for the dowels - adjust per the diameter of whatever dowels you go with

Essential tools which I already had and did not include in total cost:

- ratchet set (for lag screws, which I think are essential for safety purposes for anything that will support your body weight)
- drill
- impact driver
- mitre saw
- ratchet straps (makes attaching the dowels to the posts and keeping them there an absolute breezy breeze)
- drill guide (basically a portable drill press which has become one of my all-time favorite tools - used it for my stall bars and parallettes and works like a dream without the bulk and expense of a drill press)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014A1Z92I/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_Nn2cEbGT0RN4N

Even if you had to buy or rent all of the hardware you'd still be saving a TON of money off of the price of real gymnastics parallel bars, which run anywhere from $1500-$6k.

Couple notes on the final design: 

Bars are 5' high and 6' wide the base. I set the bars 19" apart at the center, which I measured by finding a comfy distance with my arms engaged at my side and having my wife measure between them. The base width plus the weight of the 4x4s means I can put all my weight (165 lbs) on a single bar for straight bar dip and the structure doesn't budge even a little bit. You can lay across them for leg raises too, with a blanket or yoga mat to help soften the pressure on the hips. 

I put the 2x6 base supports on the inside of the structure because I have crazy kids over all the time (mine plus neighbors) and imagined all the stubbed toes and tears on the sharp corners. This is the one thing I'd change if I did them over and didn't have that concern. 

Depending on your height you'd want to be careful where you put the 2x4 support lengths that run parallel to the bars towards the base. It's nice having them where they are for me for stepping up into the bars, but they also can get in the way on single bar work. I'm 5'10" 165lbs so it's not a big issue for me. But at 19.5" off the ground they'd be a nuisance for someone 6' or over for straight bar exercises.

I've tested these for straight bar dips, Korean dips, leg raises, and traditional dips and they're solid for everything. I couldn't be happier. Hope this helps or inspires somebody out there!

May your 2020 be full of success and obstacles conquered!

Jon

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